Tufts’ Befuddling “Food Compass”


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Occasional mental confusion is common as one grows older and is nothing to be particularly alarmed about. Really smart people have told me that repeatedly over the years, and I’ve taken comfort in what they said.  Especially when I repeatedly forget where I put my car keys (typically in my coat pocket). Or where I’ve left my reading glasses (usually on my head). Or what my Amazon account password is (a highly punctuated profanity).

But I’ve got to admit I was thrown for a very serious loop when I came across something called the Tufts Food Compass Score…

In case you haven’t heard, the Food Compass Score is supposed to be the latest and best offering from the Really Smart Scientists Community for people trying to make better choices about the food they eat.  The Score applies page after page after page of detailed and elaborately footnoted criteria for judging just how good for us various foods are.

There are all sorts of smart-sounding evaluative criteria related to diet and nutrition, chemistry, biology and all the other subjects I either failed or scraped by with a solid “D” in high school and college.

So I was prepared to be wowed by this newest and supposedly simplest way to judge the food options I have and the choices I make every day. Lord knows I want to live a long, long time. More accurately, I need to live a lot longer if I’m ever going to pay my way out of debt. And what’s better for that than a smart-decision-making tool based on science from an outfit like Tufts University?

Now this prestigious institution has gone and made me wonder: either I’m having a serious period of senior mental confusion, or my faith in the Tufts name and reputation may be misplaced.

You see, the conclusions drawn in their new Food Compass create some real mental disconnects for me. Foods that I like and thought of as at least somewhat “healthy” and good for me fare poorly on the Food Compass. Many I considered suspect at best rank nearer the top of their charts. I don’t pretend to be a scientist or an intellectual, but I have survived seven decades by making what I think are halfway intelligent decisions about what I eat.

The Food Compass Nutrient Profiling System evaluates more than eight thousand foods and beverages, spanning all major food categories against a complex mix of science-based measures related to nutrition and health. The formula also tries to consider foods that are actually mixtures of different foods, such as pizza. Each food winds up with a cumulative score based on a scale of 100 points. The higher the point ranking, the better the food is supposed to be for me.

Foods and beverages scoring 30 or below are to be “minimized.” Those with scores of 70 or better are to be “encouraged.” Anything in between – you’re on your own to decide.

That’s a big help to indecisive chowderheads like me.

What in the world makes anyone at Tufts think I won’t automatically decide ‘yes’ on anything I already like and “no” on anything I don’t? Some help that middle group is to me.

The whole idea is to boil all the complex and sometimes controversial aspects of judging a food’s ‘healthiness’ into a simple number that people can use to make faster, better decisions about what they eat. And food manufacturers are somehow supposed to use the scores to make better decisions about producing ‘healthy’ food products.

It sounds great. But so did the aluminum siding I bought for our first old termite-infested starter house so many years ago. Or that timeshare in Orlando the aggressive and clean-cut salesperson touted after a golf-cart tour of the beautifully landscaped resort next to the mosquito-rich swamp and pitcher of complimentary margaritas.

This is where life experience and faith in science come into apparent conflict.

Now, if I have the patience to look at the aggregate scores for various food categories, it seems to make a bit more sense. Veggies, fruits, legumes, and nuts all show up in the top tier of ‘good’ food choices. Salty and overly-sweet dessert foods and sugary beverages fare exceptionally poorly. Beef ranks in the bottom category, poultry in the middle, and seafood a mere three points out of the top-tier ranking.

But let’s get to the specifics that really get my goat. Or, more accurately, consider some of the individual scores that leave me still feeling a bit puzzled, or as my geriatric-specialist doctor says, “a touch confused.”

Am I to believe that a bowl of Fruit Loops is healthier for me for breakfast than a plain bagel? Are Lucky Charms to be chosen over steak? Chocolate-covered almonds over cheddar cheese?

I guess my childhood wasn’t so deprived after all – eating Kellogg’s Frosted Mini-Wheats for breakfast was listed as healthier than oatmeal.

The hamburger I grew up eating rates only 26 measly points on the 100-point scale, but Honey Nut Cheerios is 73. What about a fake egg fried in vegetable oil is 69, while a real egg fried in butter is only 28. Orange juice with calcium – basically a glycemic-spiking drink with a daily allotment of 24 grams of sugar – rates a whopping 87 over fiber foods such as millet or whole wheat bread. Whole milk is smack-dab in the middle of the middle (“to be moderated”) category, but plain whole-milk yogurt grabs 81 points out of 100.  May the gods help energy drinks, who earn next to no points at all.

I also grew up watching reruns of I Love Lucy, and to this day I still use the same politically incorrect line from that show when I have disputes with my wife. “Lucy, you got some ‘splaining to do.” I’ve read and re-read and re-read the Tufts Food Compass and all sorts of notes from the academics and observations in the media from specialists in nutrition and health. I still have the unshakeable faith in facts, reason and science that was drummed into me over countless years.

But I still can’t help but feel confused far more than enlightened by all this. My colleagues at Dirt to Dinner have agreed to post some of the data and charts from the Food Compass, so you can make of it what you will. Make your own judgments. You’re smart people. Smarter than me, I have no doubt.

But I’m going to continue to rely on my own judgment far more than any single study or set of recommendations. It may not be a perfect system. But I’m no fool. I can find information I need to make good decisions, or decisions that don’t leave me feeling confused and adrift.

Like I said, I have no inclination to die young for any reason, let alone something as important to my well-being as the food I eat.

Faith in science comes with a concurrent skepticism and demand for proof – solid, understandable and defensible proof. I’ve seen too many ‘guides’ and ‘standards’ that ultimately proved to be essentially informational Ponzi schemes, made popular primarily by hype, or bought and paid for by some entrenched interest. In this day and age of diminishing faith and trust in key societal institutions – government, corporations and, yes, even academic institutions – I want information I can understand, information that I sense as being valid, complete and trustworthy.

The Tufts Food Compass may very well be all of that, and maybe even more. But they still have some ‘splaining to do, at least to me.

New England Farm Connects Soil to Health


Steve McMenamin is the manager of Versailles Farms, a Connecticut-based market-garden operation at the forefront of regenerative agriculture. Versailles Farms’ mission is to grow food for the community with an emphasis on nutrient density, flavor, and good digestion. 

Steve and his wife, Ingrid, started the farm in 2013 after selling Versailles Bistro, a local institution, taking it out of bankruptcy and earning a 4-star review by the New York Times in 2010.

Steve is also the executive director of the Greenwich Roundtable, a non-profit research and education group, and publisher of best practices that focus on long-term investing.

Steve learned almost everything he knows about agriculture from his grandfathers and YouTube.

 

China’s Plight with Food Independence

Xi and the Chinese Communist Party (CCP) want China to have food independence. But they can’t. Each day, China must feed 20% of the global population on a land mass slightly smaller than the U.S. As a result, China has become the largest agricultural importer in the world. Overall, they import 12% of the global food trade and only export 5%. They are consumers of 27% of the world’s meat, 45% of global soybeans, and 18% of global corn.

What is the CCP importing?

China relies on other countries to supply them with items such as beer, tree nuts, wine, fresh fruits, dairy, and meat.

And let’s not forget corn and soybeans to feed their own pork and poultry.

China’s population has peaked out at 1.4 billion people today, but even with an expected population decline, that’s still a lot of people. Yet those who live in rural areas are still moving to cities. As their diets become more sophisticated, it is projected by 2025 that each Chinese citizen will consume 20% more meat at 116 pounds from just 99 pounds per year today. (This is compared to the U.S. at 225 per person.)

More meat on China’s table means more hogs and chickens, and a three-fold increase in milk consumption means more dairy cows – all waiting to be fed with more soybeans and corn.

On top of that, Chinese consumers are increasing their use of soybean oil for cooking. Put the pieces together and the enormity of the challenge facing China becomes readily apparent: China’s hopes for food security rest substantially on the need for help outside its borders.

Aside from food security, Xi is having a tough time. Just to mention a few things…

  • Citizens all over China protested Covid lockdowns and encouraged Xi to resign. He discontinued restrictions, gave the Chinese their freedom, and it is anticipated that one-third of their population will end up with Covid and one million could die.
  • GDP has declined from supply chain issues, a drop in real estate prices, lower infrastructure spending, and reduced corporate profits due to weak domestic demand.
  • The world is watching and speculating about a possible invasion of Taiwan.
  • Companies are leaving China to produce their goods in Thailand, Vietnam, and Indonesia.
  • Chinese espionage is rampant. 
  • …And finally, the crimes against humanity by the CCP toward the Uyghurs adds to the global dislike toward Xi and the CCP.

While we can’t read Xi’s mind, we can look at some of China’s decisions that give us insights into their strategy for food security.

The Five-Year Plan

Food security concerns were confirmed in March 2022 during the Five-Year Plan (2021-2025) presentation at the 13th National Committee of the Chinese People’s Political Consultative Conference (CPPCC).

Here, Xi stressed that eating matters most, and food is the most basic necessity of the people.

Their Five-Year Plan may sound reasonable – but in reality, it is fraught with insurmountable challenges.

Their strategic plan called for annual grain production such as corn, rice, and wheat of no less than 650 million metric tonnes and meat production of 89 million tonnes. Meeting the production goals of this lofty plan demands a 102% increase in domestic grains. They are achieving their meat goals at 88 million metric tons, but how will they produce the volume of grain-based animal feed necessary to maintain that production level for meat?

Over the last few years, China has increasingly relied on imports of agricultural goods to meet these demands. In fact, they bought $33 billion of ag imports from the U.S. in 2021 – a 33% increase from 2020 – making China its top purchaser.

And China’s dependence doesn’t stop there. Brazil continues to be its top ag supplier with 22% market share in 2021. The U.S. is close behind with 18%, followed by the European Union with $24.4B in ag imports.

A future without food shortages requires an improvement in the quality and farmland and an increase in crop yields. The CCP is upgrading 16.5 million acres to withstand droughts and floods to produce higher yields through technology, irrigation, and pollution control.

But is their arable land fixable? China’s limited environmental regulations combined with an aggressive move to middle-class urbanization has polluted both the soil and water, creating major strains on-farm resources. Not to mention toxic human waste, agricultural and industrial chemicals can be found everywhere in the soil. The story is grim.

About 80% of food grown in China is produced by 250 million smallholder farmers, many of whom work very hard, albeit with limited machinery. So they struggle to grow their crops on a large scale like the U.S. and Brazil, as some of their yields are only 60% of full capacity.

An academician of the Chinese Academy of Engineering said, “In terms of typical agricultural machinery such as tractors and harvesters, there is a gap of more than 30 years between us and foreign countries.”

To ensure these farmers can make a living and prevent them from poverty the CPP provides higher prices for food grown at home than that imported. To help their farmers, and to mitigate climate change, there is a minimum purchase price for wheat and rice. Overall, the price support was 14.8% of gross farm receipts.

“Water, water everywhere, and nary a drop to drink.”

Their arable land is not pristine. China has 20% of the global population but only possesses 6% of the world’s groundwater. About 40% of China’s agricultural land is polluted with unsafe water. Almost all of China’s lakes and rivers are also polluted and the wild-caught fish is not really edible. Their farmed fish isn’t so great either.

The Ministry of Water Resources tested 2,103 wells in three different watersheds and found that 80% of the groundwater is polluted with toxic metals and other contaminants. Another research study by Tsinghua University found that at least 100 million Chinese drink unsafe water with high concentrations of toxic chemicals which take centuries to degrade and cannot be easily detoxified by the human body.

Extreme weather in the form of floods and heat has also affected their food production. It has damaged at least 14 million acres of crops, ruined roads, and displaced millions of people.

GMOs will help. A little worm called the Fall Armyworm also arrived in China devastating about 2.7 million acres of crops in 26 provinces and regions. It attacked mostly corn but also wheat, ginger, sugarcane, and sorghum. While the worm started in the America’s, U.S. farmers are able to prevent crop failure due to GMOs, specifically Bt corn. Currently, China’s reconsidering its stance on GMOs.

Their pork industry was cut in half in 2018 by the highly contagious African Swine Fever. Pork is their favorite meat and China farms half the world’s pig population. In 2018, during the crisis, they lost almost 50% of their herd. While most of the herds have been built back up, this deadly virus took its toll on both the farmer and the consumer. Farmers had to rebuild their herds and the consumer paid $3.50 a pound compared to $1.50 before ASF.

Strategies to secure U.S. food supply

Acquiring U.S. land is one strategy to alleviate food security. Concern over China purchasing U.S. land is running high.  Even though they own just under 1% of U.S. land, their interest in U.S. agriculture has grown significantly since 2000. Since 2020, Chinese investors own about 192,000 acres valued at $1.9 billion. As of December 2020, 37.6 million acres of U.S. agricultural land is owned by foreign investors. That is 2.9% of cropland, pasture, forest, and other.

It is not the amount of land that is concerning but the location. As of December 2020, China has purchased over 352,140 acres of U.S. land. Part of this purchase included 370 acres in Grand Forks, North Dakota. A Chinese company called Fufeng Group purchased this land right next to the Grand Forks Air Force Base. Of course, this has sent off alarms among citizens and government officials alike.

Associated with the CCP, Sun Guangxin has spent the last five years buying up 140,000 acres in Texas for his own Blue Hills Wind Farm – right next to the Laughlin Air Force Base. Luckily, this was stopped by the Lone Star Infrastructure Protection Act which is to prevent hostile nations from accessing Texas’s electricity grid and other infrastructure.

Mike Pence was reported to have said at the Heritage Foundation, “America cannot allow China to control our food supply.” In addition, three Republican senators wrote a letter to U.S. Treasury Secretary Janet Yellen and U.S. Defense Secretary Lloyd Austin to review this purchase. The House Appropriations Committee voted to prevent China from buying more U.S. farmland. But in reality, it is hard to tell who is buying our farmland and some loopholes allow the Chinese to purchase our land through an American investor.

Chinese companies investing in U.S. companies

China’s Shuanghui Group purchased Smithfield Foods, which was the largest U.S. pork producer. Besides acquiring their technology, the purchase included 146,000 acres to house hog farms, processing plants, and feed mills. Since the acquisition, WH Group (formerly Shuanghui), now a state-run meat packing facility, purchased Clougherty Packing from Hormel and Kansas City Sausage, LLC. In addition, they have canceled contracts with U.S. grain co-ops and purchased their own grain elevators to feed their hogs.

This acquisition has helped China grow its pork outside China in the U.S. This makes it easier for them to purchase corn and soybeans in the U.S. and then feed their hogs in the U.S. The pork is cut and packaged here in the U.S. and then shipped to China. It also alleviates any corn and soybean tariffs China would have to pay for U.S. imports.

Similar U.S.- China channels like this can also offset China’s substantial demand for grain production. COFCO, a Chinese food processing company, partnered with GROWMARK a U.S. grain logistics company. This gives them access to grains exported to China via the Mississippi River. This important waterway exports 92% of U.S. agricultural exports and 78% of grains and soybeans.

Digging In: Droughts Drive Smart Water Use


In our discussion, Curt will outline some of the things he and other smart, innovative farmers do to get ready for the worst. We’ll talk about the efforts being made to improve water management as a key element of farm management. We will hear about new technology and the enormous investments being made in tools for reducing water use, and relying on crops with greater drought resistance. We might also be surprised to hear why trade is an important part of the answer to drought.

Climate change is making drought and other weather extremes ever more likely. So take a few moments to join in with Nate and Dirt to Dinner’s Garland West to hear all the things people like Curt are doing to deal with this enormous challenge to our farming system – and our food security.

Not All Fiber is Created Equal

Nana’s homemade sourdough bread, my mid-day protein bar, a whole wheat turkey wrap—all fiber-packed options that are good for me, right?

Until recently, I assumed all fiber was good fiber and that I will take it any way I can get it. But we must consider where we are getting our nutrients from.

Fiber comes in two primary buckets: natural fibers and functional fibers.

Natural fibers naturally occur in foods, like pears and raspberries, versus functional fibers which are derived from a variety of whole and processed foods. 

Though this classification seems to provide a clear-cut differentiation between fiber types, some academics believe we must also focus on three things when considering fiber quality in our diet: solubility, viscosity, and fermentability.

Understanding Solubility, Viscosity, and Fermentability

Solubility is the first important consideration. The term refers to the bioavailability of nutrients in the body. Foods like oats, peas, beans, barley, apples, citrus, and carrots are all great sources of soluble fiber. These fiber nutrients are able to be mixed with water and absorbed by the body. Soluble fibers can aid in digestion and lower blood sugar.

Alternatively, insoluble fibers cannot become available for the body to absorb. Instead, they are considered non-digestible fibers, or more of a bulking agent that simply passes directly through the digestive system. While the FDA has used this as a threshold for including it on the nutritional label (as little to no nutrients can be derived), non-soluble fibers also serve a purpose: they pull water to the colon to help soften stool, thus making it easier to pass.

Viscosity refers to fibers’ ability to thicken when mixed with fluids. This includes polysaccharides like gums, pectins, psylliums, and beta-glucans. Viscous fibers have been credited with many physiological responses such as enhanced feelings of fullness which can aid in weight loss due to appetite control.

Good sources include asparagus, Brussels sprouts, sweet potatoes, barley, oats, oranges, legumes, and mangoes.

Fermentability is precisely as it sounds – the ability to ferment. Fibers that are able to ferment can stimulate the growth and activity of beneficial gut bacteria, called prebiotic fibers. This can improve glycemic control and digestion efficiency, and lower blood cholesterol concentration. Good sources of fermentable fibers are oats, barley, chicory root, leeks, onions, and bananas.

FDA’s updated fiber classification

Fiber has been loosely defined as a group of carbs that humans cannot digest, but does not identify the health effects of the type of fiber. Recently, the FDA changed its framework around what can and cannot be included as fiber on a nutritional label.

Specifically, all naturally-occurring fibers are allowed to be listed; however, only seven out of 27 functional fibers made the cut. This is due to either their solubility, viscosity, and/or fermentability:

The FDA recommends that our total dietary fiber be about 25 grams per day, of which about 6 grams or 25% of our DV should be comprised of soluble fiber. Our nutritional label placed fiber beneath carbohydrates and is noted as Dietary Fiber.

Remember that the grams listed next to the nutritional fact are per serving size. Furthermore, the percentage to the right details what percentage of the recommended daily value (DV) each serving size contains.

In the example to the right, there are 6 grams of dietary fiber per ½ cup, which accounts for 24% of your recommended daily value.

In the U.S. products that contain at least 10% DV or over 2.5g of fiber per serving can claim on their packaging that they are a good source of fiber. Foods containing 20% DV or 5g or more can label a product high in fiber.

Fiber and gut-health science

Here is a little bit of science for you to bring the whole picture to life.  Many things impact an individual’s composition of gut microbiota, of which fibers play an important role.

The fiber in the gut provides energy for the microbes to create metabolites, like short-chain fatty acids. These fatty acids are then absorbed into circulation or be utilized as an agent for other microbes to use for digestion.

High dietary fiber consumption is associated with a diverse gut microbiota, which increases microbial activity. Increase microbial activity is directly correlated with a decrease in the prevalence of obesity and other inflammatory diseases. A reduction in inflammatory markers leads to a strengthen and fortified immune system.

Gut-derived short-chain fatty acids have been shown to improve metabolic regulation and insulin sensitivity, regulate weight and reduce inflammation. That said, recent studies support the importance of soluble, fermentable fibers as a priority.

Fermentable fiber specifically can serve as food, that some of your good gut bacteria can feed on, in a process called fermentation, which releases gases like carbon dioxide and hydrogen, which are either released or absorbed into the body. Most especially, the bacteria found in your colon need fiber to function.

Tips to Take Away

While this may seem like a lot to digest, pun intended, here are some easy takeaways that you can start doing today!

  1. Seek 10% whole grains when you can. As you likely discovered when reading over the sources of soluble, fermentable, and viscous fibers is that most whole-grain fibers fall into all three categories. Look for foods like whole barley, oats, brown rice, and whole-wheat products.
  2. Eat fruits and veggies at every meal and as a snack. This is probably the easiest to remember—because fruits and veggies are both high in fiber AND they are packed with other beneficial nutrients. Eating fresh produce every meal will ensure that you are getting in natural fibers.
  3. Gradually increase your fiber, but not all at once. You may be tempted after reading this to go out and pack your diet full of fiber, but be forewarned. Drastic or sudden increases in fiber can cause gastrointestinal issues. Be sure to gradually increase your fiber intake so as not to disrupt your gut microbiome and cause discomfort.
  4. Drink plenty of fluids with your fiber. Fiber draws in water, so without drinking water to accompany our fiber, you risk becoming dehydrated. They have a harmonious relationship, so be sure to include plenty of fluids with your fiber intake.

Whether you are substituting your white bread for a whole wheat wrap, just remember that while not all fibers are created equal, they all serve a purpose. Natural fibers are nutrient dense and are bioavailable for the body to use, while functional fibers can help with digestion.

For your daily recommended value, be sure to consume at least 25g of natural fibers per day—these will be listed on your nutrition labels!